While we learn how to handle new physical perils in the outside world, we also suddenly need to gracefully navigate an extremely stressed social climate. Etiquette for the epidemic isn’t superficial; it protects and strengthens our social fabric.

Social Distancing, Social Media

Social media may help to fill the enormous gap left in our lives because of social distancing. But it can only go so far.

Just as before, social media can connect us across geography and time, which is something we can appreciate now more than ever before. But social media can also serve as an ersatz social life. Quantities of friends and numbers of likes can mask the absence of meaningful connection.

Etiquette for the Epidemic: Using Social Media Well

On the plus side, social media gives us the chance to find out how far-away friends and family are coping. It can also connect us with more distant friends – people we see infrequently and aren’t in close contact with. I’ve been moved by the genuine interest that acquaintances have shown. I’ve also been surprised by the superficiality, or even absence, of exchanges with people I’d thought I was closer to.

We can shape a meaningful virtual world by using social media with sincerity. One way is to connect with people on an individual level. Another is to share constructive information. I’m always grateful for something novel to read – some new ideas. Some people have a gift for inspirational or entertaining content.

You’re Not Alone

You’re not the only person experiencing the pandemic, even if social distancing makes you feel like you are. That’s what the word pandemic means – everyone is experiencing it. Everyone else is also experiencing the same isolation, the same concerns, and many of us are going through much worse. Unfortunately, it’s not just about you.

Boredom Is Not in Fashion

Complaining about boredom is out.

Time is a gift, not a burden. Speaking of ways to pass time, to kill time, is in poor taste. The essential workers protecting us would be grateful for the reflective time we have. More to the point, people struggling for their lives are struggling for more time. Time is life itself, and if it’s abundant, we can only be grateful.

Pushiness Is Also Not in Fashion

Maintaining safe social distancing isn’t just about good manners; it’s an essential for public health. For some of us, it’s even a survival skill. We’ve all seen altercations arise from people taking advantage and squeezing in between responsible people waiting 2 meters apart in line. Then the shouting – shouting of course was never in, but now it’s simply unsafe.

Keeping a safe distance from others can be an exhausting exercise in vigilance. We’re trying to stay to one side of the pavement when we do go out. Particularly when someone can’t see us, we take responsibility for maintaining the appropriate distance.

Socializing During the Epidemic

It would be nice if some of our new ways of relating to one another could stick. We’re all missing human contact. To stay socially connected, we can revive some pre-social media customs:

Communicating with Strangers

I was walking the dog. Another woman was walking her dog. As we passed each other across a distance of 3 – 4 meters, we gave a courteous nod. Then, we saw each other again 20 minutes later. We were both disproportionately thrilled.

Face masks hide our smiles so we have to incorporate gestures – a wave to say hello, touching our chest to say thank you. Maybe we’ll make up new gestures along the way.

Reinventing the Neighborhood

We’re also getting to know our neighbors better, calling across from balcony to balcony. No one seems to want to miss an opportunity for socializing.

It’s really nice to shake off a little of our urban cool.

Talking on the Landline

Some of remember a time when there was such a thing as a long distance call. They were really expensive. We counted the moments and enjoyed the voice on the other end as long as we could afford to.

A phone call was an event. We didn’t have any distractions, like a TV on in the background. We focused totally on the other person. We can make conversation matter the same way now.

Analog Communication: Using the Mail

We’re missing physical contact more than anything. It’s nice to get an instant message or an email. But a letter or postcard you old in your hands is a rare treat. Writing them is also a meaningful way of connecting for you.

Virtual Cocktail Party

To these vintage communication standbys, we can add another favorite with a 21st century twist. The other night, all of us in Travel Bloggers Greece had an evening of wine and conversation via Skype. It was strangely touching to see the faces of friends gathered together again.

Etiquette for the Epidemic – How to Communicate with Compassion

Etiquette’s not about making an impression; it’s about showing care for others. Kindness and sincerity are the foundation of good manners.

It’s nothing more than a set of guidelines to help us gracefully through social situations, particularly unfamiliar ones. The epidemic is the definition of an unfamiliar situation, and that makes etiquette indispensable now. It’s essential for nurturing our personal relationships – no matter how casual or how close. But more importantly still, it keeps society intact. We don’t just survive as individuals; we survive as a culture.

It’s comforting to be able to rely on these rules. Just when we need them most though, in a situation of panic or distress, they seem to abandon some of us. All we need to do is treat people as we wish to be treated. If that’s challenging, we can just take our cue from the other person, by responding in kind.

Responding in Kind

When people reach out to inquire about you, trust in their sincerity. No one’s asking you about yourself just to get you to ask how they are. But do ask – and not just because of conventional etiquette. Not showing an interest in others now can communicate an unseemly self-absorption. Good manners are fundamentally an expression of character.

Following up with a reciprocal inquiry is also important for you, for preserving your own humanity. There’s so little most of us can do about the pandemic. But one thing we can do is to take an interest in others. It’s also a relief to take a break from having life just be about you.

Questions vs. Good Wishes

Asking how your friends, neighbors, and family are faring actually does two things. You get the information you need, but you also engage more deeply. Good wishes are nice, but eliciting information demonstrates a more sincere interest – you’re not just hoping they are well, you want to know.

What to Ask During the Epidemic?

Most of us aren’t as concerned about ourselves as much as we are about the others in our lives. Some have friends and family doing essential work that puts them in harm’s way. And most of us have more vulnerable people in our lives – our older parents, or friends and relatives who are in delicate health. Also, many also have family and friends who are separated from them by oceans, continents, and closed borders, or who live in countries that have been hit particularly hard. It’s nice when someone takes an interest in the people we care about.

We can meet distress with compassion. And on the other hand, many of our inquiries will be rewarded with good news, allowing us a moment to experience gratitude.

Compassion and gratitude both are becoming essential survival tools. It’s helpful to seek every opportunity to practice both.

And Whom Do We Ask?

Some of the most meaningful and sincere exchanges I’ve had have been with people I haven’t seen in a very long time. Others have even been with people I don’t know that well. It’s the distance itself that makes them so meaningful, proving the strength of our society in tough times. We can strengthen it further by widening our circle.

There’s nothing obscure or arcane about good manners. Etiquette at heart is an expression of character and compassion. Doing what feels natural and kind is always the right thing.

Wishing you all good health.

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The post Etiquette for the Epidemic – Gracefully Navigating Our New Social Reality appeared first on Provocolate.

These five destinations – Baden-Baden, Budapest, Belgrade, London, and Rome – are easy cities to enjoy. And they are all particularly good at celebrating the Holidays – they’re ideal for last minute, spontaneous Christmas and New Year’s Eve vacations.

Baden-Baden – an Old World Classic Place to Spend your Christmas and New Year’s Eve

Baden-Baden at Christmas and New Year’s is even more enchanting than usual. This unique town centers around the spas (Baden means “to bathe” in German) that catered originally to royalty and high society Europe. Logically a wealth of leisure and cultural activities followed. It makes an ideal place to spend and festive and rejuvenating Christmas and New Year’s Eve.

I took a fantastic trip to Baden-Baden last year right before Christmas. I came to experience the world-famous Friedrichsbad and its strict – and, as I discovered, strictly nude – 17-step procedure. Everything else was a delightful surprise. I don’t care for gambling, but I loved the Casino of Baden-Baden, essentially a museum of recreation, with gilded walls and baroque ceiling paintings depicting all the towns of Baden-Württemberg.

The Trinkhalle and its murals is still a social gathering place, a setting for the lovely Nativity scene during the holidays. And the great lawn in front of the opulent Kurhaus – were the Casino of Baden-Baden is – has a fairy-tale perfect Christmas market, glittering under a velvet night sky. We shopped, warmed up with mulled wine, and had plates of hearty Spätzle with sauerkraut and Speck.

By day, you can stroll along the banks of the lovely river Oos, and stop for Kaffee und Kuchen – the customary afternoon ritual of coffee, cake, and chat. The best place to for this in Baden-Baden is the Café König, an institution famous for schwarzwälder Kirschtorte – a must when you are actually in the Schwarzwald (the Black Forest). For an refined evening, check the program of the world-famous Festspielhaus – Baden Baden’s elegant performance space hosts internationally renowned productions throughout the season.

There are a host of Gala events for New Year’s Eve in Baden at the finest hotels. There is also a festive New Year’s Eve concert at the Festspielhaus early in the evening. This way you’ll have plenty of time to prepare for celebrating New Year’s Eve in style.

Baden-Baden has many other enchanting cities close by. An efficient train network connects Baden-Baden to Strasbourg, Colmar, and Freiburg, Heidelberg, and other fairy-tale destinations. We saw them all on convenient day trips. The regional network offers great discounts for day tickets for groups, with savings starting at just two people. Each of these towns was full of Christmas markets, Cathedrals, mulled wine, and the scent of cinnamon and snowflakes in the air.

Baden-Baden’s Best Hotels – Wonderful Places to Spend Christmas and New Year’s Eve

Baden-Baden’s Old Town is the place you’ll want to be. We stayed near the Festspielhaus, which is the only landmark not in the old Town. It wasn’t too far, but it was a chilly walk after an evening in the baths or after the Casino. I’ll definitely stay in the old town on my next trip, at one of these hotels. By clicking on the links, you’ll find candid reviews, photos, and more details about your stay:

The venerable Brenner’s Park Hotel and Spa is an institution, an supremely elegant grand hotel overlooking ts own private gardens. It offers the classic, and exclusive, Baden-Baden experience.

The four-star Hotel Rathausglöckel is a charmer. In a 16th-century building just 50 meters from the Friedrichsbad, this is the best location for the classic Baden Baden experience. Freshly renovated rooms have a stately decor with wood furnishings. A large buffet breakfast – optional – is served in a handsome room, and there is also a romantic wine cellar. The prices for the quality are excellent.

The Boutique-style Hotel Beek has handsome rooms – some with a balcony. You’re right next to the Caracalla Baths, surrounded by the Black Forest. The price includes a very good breakfast.

Elegant and grand, the Hotel Am Sophienpark unites a classic beauty with fresh, contemporary design sensibility. This is one of Baden-Baden’s more indulgent choices, and worth the splurge. It’s close to the Kurhaus, where the Casino is, and to the Caracalla Baths. The rooms are spacious, and include an excellent breakfast.

The stylish Hotel Merkur has an elegant modern decor, large rooms, and an excellent breakfast. The location is excellent, on a quiet street in the center.

Best Places to Spend Your Christmas and New Year’s Eve – Budapest

Budapest is festive in any season. This elegant capital with its neo-Baroque and Art Nouveau buildings and beautiful bridges is so ornate it looks like it’s ready for the holidays all the time. But they really go all out for the holidays, with Europe’s most beautiful Christmas market.

Other beautiful sights include the Fisherman’s Bastion, St. Stephen’s Cathedral, the Parliament building, and – for Christmas services – the Matthias Church with its bold and colorful interior. This is a fantastic choice if you are looking for a place to spend your Christmas and New Year’s Eve that offers the ideal combination of excitement and total relaxation.

The total relaxation part is the spas, and Budapest is famous for them. Budapest is the world’s premier spa destination. The city is famous for its many hot therapeutic springs. There is an astonishing choice of opulent spas, each in its own style. This cosmopolitan Old World capital combines culture and leisure with unique style.

The creators of the Cafe Society, Budapest still has the world’s most elegant and atmospheric cafes, like the Cafe Central and the New York Cafe. For a holiday fantasy splurge, book the Herrend afternoon tea in the Peacock atrium of the supremely elegant Four Seasons Gresham Palace.

Budapest holds many possibilities for the ideal New Year’s Eve, whatever your celebration style. Thanks largely to the lively ruin pub scene in the famous 7th district – Erzsébetváros – Budapest is now a famous party and nightlife destination for all Europe. The former Jewish quarter – and present with its many Kosher restaurants – is now the premier nightlife destination, with the famous ruin pubs like Szimpla Kert.

Or you can have a more Old World Budapest New Year’s Eve, at a Gala event at the Danube Palace, enjoying classical music, a ballet performance, champagne, and elegant dining.

Whichever type of New Year’s Eve celebration you choose, you can start with a classic Budapest experience the day before, at a concert of the famous 100 Gypsy Violin Orchestra.

Perfect Budapest Hotels to Spend Christmas and New Year’s Eve

The Four Season Gresham Palace is a landmark on the Danube, an Art Nouveau landmark, stylish and impeccable in every regard. The rooms with the Danube views are a worthy indulgence, especially for Christmas and New Year’s Eve.

The Danubius Hotel Gellert is a destination in itself, as much a reason to come to Budapest as a place to stay when you’re here. Massive, slightly quirky, historic Art Nouveau-via-Wes Anderson, the Gellert has character. It’s on the Danube at the liberty bridge and beside the Gellert Hill. But you’re not here for the location. The Gellert itself is the reason I first came to Budapest, and the reason I keep coming back. I love the views and the enormous windows, The keys are heavy brass, not tacky credit card-style. The breakfast room is elegant and the buffet is astonishing. Most of all, I love walking along the oriental carpets through the huge hallways in my bathrobe, on my way to the most opulent thermal baths imaginable – the Gellert Baths.

Design fans will love the gorgeous, high-style Hotel Noble. With a convenient location in Pest and wonderfully unique and beautiful rooms, it’s perfect for an urban getaway.

A low-cost choice that really doesn’t feel like one is the lovely Hotel Memories Budapest. This hotel in a building from 1900 has handsome contemporary rooms as well as a sauna and fitness area. The price includes a full breakfast, and there is free coffee available throughout the day. The location is perfect for exploring the old Jewish quarter of pest, the center for culture and nightlife, and it is very close to the Great Synagogue of Budapest.

You can browse more Budapest choices by clicking here.

Christmas in Belgrade – Twice

Belgrade is a particularly interesting choice when you’re considering places to spend your Christmas and New Year’s Eve. This is a destination with an important difference: The Serbians are primarily Orthodox Christians who follow the old calendar. This means that they celebrate Christmas on January 7th. This can go two ways. One option is that you can enjoy Christmas on the 25th with all of the festive atmosphere, but none of the inconvenience with everything being closed for your holiday. The other option is that you enjoy a second Christmas with the Serbians. You can go for New Year’s Eve and stay on for Serbian Christmas a week later. You can even go for Serbian Christmas and stay for the second Serbian New Year’s Eve. They celebrate both.

Throughout the season, a charming Christmas Market is open in Republic Square. And Sevti Sava wil be a wonderful place for Christmas servces. This Othodox church is the largest in the Balkans. It’s dome is actually several meters higher than that of Agia Sophia in Istanbul.

Belgrade is both cosmopolitan and very old world at the same time. There is a beautiful National Theater with a full schedule of Operas and Ballets. Tickets are very affordable – almost like cinema tickets. Serbians enjoy culture, and Theater, Opera and Ballet accessible to everyone. Here is how to visit the Opera House and see a performance.

The House of Flowers – Tito’s final resting place – is a monument to his enormous charisma. After visiting the House of Flowers, you can visit the museum of Yugoslavia. This focuses on Yugoslavia after WWII, and is on the same property. Both museums are deeply atmospheric, powerfully evoking the era.

The Nikola Tesla Museum is thrilling and fun, and ideal for visitors of any age. In addition to being a museum of Science and his phenomenal contributions, it’s also a tribute to the individual, with many of his personal effects on display (he was a man of refined and extraordinary style). The Kalemegdan Fortress and Park is a favorite destination with locals. perfect for a stroll among the bare trees, even on a chilly day. The scent of roasted chestnuts fills the air and a paper cone full of them will warm you up. There’s also a small zoo.

Belgrade is a great city for nightlife. Try the charming Bohemian pedestrian street Skardalija. The various Rakija will warm you right up. These distilled spirits are fragrant with the fruit from which they have been distilled. They come in a great variety. Plum is the most common, and quince and pear are delightful. Belgrade is an excellent town for drinking and socializing, with plenty of quality local beers and spirits – here is a guide to what to drink in Belgrade.

There are countless choices New Year’s Eve in Belgrade. This is a great night city. The best way to celebrate may be to pace yourself. Rest up, then bundle up- Belgrade is cold for Christmas and New Years! Start with the fireworks and the countdown, then go from party to part

The Best Hotels for Where to Spend Christmas and New Year’s Eve in Belgrade

The classic choice is the opulent, gilded Hotel Moskva. The building is a landmark beauty in a central spot, and this is also a popular meeting point – having a slice of the Moskva Schnitt in the cafe is a Belgrade tradition.

In New Belgrade, across the river, is the inexpensive Garni Hotel Jugoslavija, a showpiece of glamorous modernism from the Tito era. The Hotel Jugoslavija is the subject of an excellent and evocative film.

If you plan to enjoy the nightlife around charming Skardalija, you’ll enjoy the Hotel Bohemian Garnia Skardalija, with an industrial-chic, minimalist decor.

The warm contemporary classic style of the elegant Hotel Centar 1 makes it one of the loveliest Hotels of Belgrade. It’s close to the National Theater.

If you prefer an apartment-style experience, you might try the glitzy and well-appointed Ben Akiba Luxury Suites, some with Jacuzzi. They’re located in Stari Grad, just 100m from the central Republic Square.

These are my top choices for my next trip to Belgrade. There are many more options here.

London – One of the Most Exciting Places to Spend Your Christmas and New Year’s Eve

England – land of A Christmas Carroll and Harry Potter – defines the holiday mood. London is big and splashy and fabulous – the ideal place to spend your Christmas and New Years.

London goes all out for the holidays. Hyde Park becomes a gorgeous Winter Wonderland. There’s an ice skating rink, ice sculpting, a Christmas market, a little Bavaria. There’s also a host of performances, an Observation Wheel 60 meters high, and nine (!) roller coasters. Admission to the extravaganza is free. But it’s wise to book tickets for special events in advance.

It’s not just the Winter Wonderland that sparkles. London goes all-out, all over for Christmas and New Year’s Eve. This is a big city. To see the very best of London’s beautiful holiday decorations and hear some wonderful stories and facts along the way, bundle up and take this London Christmas Lights Tour on an adorable vintage open-topped bus. Harry Potter fans will love this tour of Magical London, with a fanatical and fun expert guide.

The famous large department stores have fanciful window displays, and stock special goods for Christmas. Join the festive crowds browsing at Fortnum and Mason, Selfridge’s, Harrod’s, and Liberty of London.

London’s year-round attractions are also worth seeing. London’s magnificent Museums are free. You can enjoy a wealth of culture in beautiful, festive settings. The National Gallery and the Tate Britain are filled with masterpieces in wonderful rooms. But my favorite London museum is the Wallace Collection – as much for the collection as for the setting. The Wallace is in an opulent mansion. The walls are covered in shimmering silks in bold jewel tones. In addition to the Old Masters, you’ll see Fragonard, Watteau, Reynolds, Gainsborough. Besides this, there are porcelains, furnishings, snuff boxes, and astonishing collection of armor. It’s never very crowded.

And you don’t really need to actually seek anything out to have the Wallace experience. All you need to do is wander through the rooms and take it in. A glass-covered interior courtyard makes the ideal place to enjoy a classic Afternoon Tea. They do a special edition at Christmas time.

With the money you’ve saved on the museums, you can afford a classic London experience – going to the theater. London’s West End is famous for the excellence of its productions. There are several productions just right for the holidays. And you can always count on a first-rate staging of The Nutcracker.

For a perfect London New Year’s Eve, join the crowds on the Victoria embankment and the South Bank area to see a massive. joyous fireworks display. It’s all the more dazzling reflected in the river Thames.

Hand-Picked Hotels for Spending your Christmas and New Year’s in London

London has famously expensive accommodations. But many are well worth the indulgence. There are also really astonishingly bad accommodations. Rarely do you see so many 5s and 6s on booking.com. Budget rooms can be dirty, windowless, or shockingly small. Here are some good choices for a variety of prices for enjoying your London Holiday.

You can get a complete overview, including photos and candid reviews, by following the links below:

The Hotel Indigo London, in Kensington, is juicy design hotel with astonishingly large rooms by London standards (24 square meters). In chic Kensington, you’re very close to the Victoria and Albert and the Museum of Natural History, and also elegant shopping and dining.

If you want to spurge even larger, the Kimpton – Fitzroy is a very appealing choice. In a gorgeous landmark building, the luxurious rooms have a contemporary elegance with a strong sense of London style. In chic Bloomsbury, near Russell Square.

London is big. You’re going to be using public transport to get around as it is. With that in mind, I once chose the MStay Golders Green. The large room with fresh modern decor with its elegant bathroom and well-equipped kitchenette were very nice to come back to after a really long day. The Kosher bakery down the street was a delicious plus. I paid a little less here than I had paid near Paddington station for a dingy, shamefully tiny room. I’ll return to the MStay in the future. Another convenient plus – the Golders Green station is a hub for the National Express bus. This makes getting to Stansted was much faster and easier than from Central London.

If you’re not going to spend much time in the room, but definitely don’t want to be slumming it, the Z Hotel Soho is an interesting choice. The rooms have an ingenious design, compact but luxurious. It makes for good prices. You can save even more by opting for a windowless room – like an airport Yotel. The location is perfect for theater and shopping.

The Best Places to Spend your Christmas and New Year’s Eve – Rome

Midnight Mass at St. Peter’s is the highlight of a Roman Christmas. This really helpful blog post details how to get tickets (free, but limited). But it also gives alternatives for other Papal ceremonies during the season. And if you can’t get into St. Peter’s, there are many other beautiful churches. You can still stop by Vatican city to see the Nativity scene and the Christmas Tree in Vatican square before celebrating a more intimate mass in a beautiful Baroque church.

Rome is one of the most beautiful and meaningful places to spend your Christmas. Like elsewhere in southern Europe, Christmas in Rome is not a very commercial holiday. The emphasis is not so much on shopping and gifts as it is on the religious celebration. It helps that Italian children receive gifts on Epiphany – the 12th day of Christmas (January 6th).

There’s plenty of celebrating, but it centers of family and foods, like rich and fluffy panettone. Many devout Italians abstain from meat on Christmas eve and eat lightly, feasting only on Christmas day. As to dining for the rest of your stay, you can’t go wrong. Even the simplest foods are delicious. A whisper thin searing hot pie from Ai Marmi is worth the wait in line. This bright, florescent-lit Trastevere pizzeria with its marble tables and lively mood is a Roman classic. Have an aperitivo first at Bar San Callisto in the Piazza of the same name.

On the other days of your Roman Christmas and New Year’s Eve holiday, take to the streets and visit Rome’s majestic squares – the Piazza Navona, the Spanish Steps, the Trevi Fountain, and more, as you stroll. You’ll enjoy it more if you dress up a little – the Italians certainly do. While you’re out, check out the traffic police officer in the circle in from of the Vittorio Emmanuele – Rome’s busiest intersection. The Pantheon is wonderful, and all the more festive with the enthusiastic crowds.

If you want to visit the Colosseum, then you may well appreciate the convenience of this skip the line ticket, which includes the Forum and Palatine Hill. The time you save is better spent searching for the perfect pastry shop. If you see one museum, let it be the Villa Borghese. The collection is rich in magnificent works of Bernini and Caravaggio. Plan your visit – there is a timed entry ticket which is actually very convenient, because it eliminates endless lines and also ensures that the museum is not very crowded.

Rome’s Best Hotels for Spending Christmas and New Year’s Eve

Luxury Hotels in Rome

The venerable, opulent Hassler Roma, at the top of the Spanish Steps, is a Roman institution. Luxury meets all-out cinematic fantasy with the incredible views. Guests love the warm, personal service. Worth it for a special holiday.

Staying at the Nobildonne Relais, also near the Spanish Steps, is like being the guest of stylish, low-key, charming nobility. If you crave authentic details like ceiling frescoes and intricate mosaic floors, this is the place for you. It’s still a splurge, but far more affordable than the Hassler.

Fabulously Affordable Hotels in Rome

There are many modern apartment hotels in the grand old buildings of of Trastevere. I really enjoyed my stay at the design beauty B&B Trastevere 94.

On another visit to Rome, I tried a completely different kind of hotel experience. we stayed at the old-fashioned Hotel Alexandra, near the top of the Spanish steps on the sweeping curve of the elegant Via Venetto. It was central, with older (but spotless) bathrooms, and lots of classic charm, including antiques in the rooms.

The Trevi Beau Boutique Hotel is a stylish option. Some of the rooms at this cozy, charming hotel have arched or timbered ceilings, plus city views. As the name promises, you are just a minute from the Trevi Fountain, so you can get there before the crowds arrive for the perfect snapshot before you return for a delicious breakfast, included with your room rate.

Each of these options can be a little under €75 or €80 for a double, at the time of this writing.

For more choices in Trastevere – a charming neighborhood to make your home away from home and the center of restaurants, cafes, and socializing for locals, please check here.

For more choices in the center of Rome, close to the monuments and sights, please check here.

Last Minute Inspiration – Best Places to Spend Your Christmas and New Year’s Eve

All of these cities are festive holiday choices, with a wonderful spirit. Better still, you can enjoy them without excessive planning, or any planning at all. Happy Holidays, wherever you plan to be.

The post Best Places to Spend your Christmas and New Year’s Eve appeared first on Provocolate.

The Holiday That Didn’t Happen

A few months ago I was on very early morning flight from Gatwick to Thessaloniki. I was lingering in the bookstore and was nearly the last to board. To the side on the ground was an English couple with both their carry-ons open, panties and cameras and cardigans strewn all over. Their trench coats were turned inside out, purses and wallets emptied. You could feel their panic. The gate attendant was kind but there was little he could do. “Can you perhaps call all the shops?” they wondered “Maybe we left or passports at one of them.” “I’d like to help, but I wouldn’t know where to start. And it’s already last call for this flight.” I felt badly for them. And not in a “but you should have been more responsible” kind of way – I have mislaid passports and tickets, but always have managed to locate them at the very last minute. But only by sheer luck.

It’s easier if I misplace my phone. You can always call a phone.

If you leave your phone somewhere, you borrow some else’s phone and call yourself. It rings. An honest person who has been waiting for your panicked call answers the phone. Or maybe your phone is tucked into a magazine you were flipping through and no one has found it. Someone will wonder why the latest issue of Vanity Fair is ringing. They’ll find your phone and pick it up.

Finding A Cell Phone

In fact, how many times have you been on a crowded bus, or even in your own home on a particularly chaotic day, and had a friend call you or called yourself from your landline, just so you didn’t have to tear your house or your handbags apart to find the phone that you know is definitely “somewhere.”? And, if you have ever had to completely empty your carry-on and personal item to lay your hands on your passport at airport security – amid grey plastic bins and impatient travelers – you’ll surely have found yourself wishing that you just could make your passport ring.

Enter Spotypal – Which Finds Things You Can’t Afford to Lose

It turns out, you can make a passport ring. Or anything else you wish. Enter Spotypal. It’s the size of a postage stamp and weighs about as much as a stick of gum, and it’s like magic. Or, at least, like a really fun and useful toy. Click here to visit their website.

Spotypal does quite a bit more than just make your passport – or anything else, like a set of keys – ring. What if you could locate your missing object on a map that you could read on right on your phone?

That couple’s passports were definitely within minutes of the gate. With Spotypal, they could have located them in no time at all and made their flight.

For Locating the Practical and the Priceless

Spotypal is good for locating things that are practical, and also things that are priceless. I tried it out on something priceless that has a mind of its own, unpredictable and playful.

Fiona loves the woods. She’s short-legged – close to the ground and dark. This makes it hard to spot her among rocks and bushes. She’s also a bold and fearless explorer, which makes trips to the woods fun, but also stressful. I’m always trying to keep Fiona in sight.

I thought this would be a great way to check out SpotyPal’s features. I would still keep my usual level of vigilance – maybe scaled back a little. But I would also track her on the device.

SpotyPal is small enough and so light-weight she didn’t even realize she was wearing it. It comes with an elastic cord that is easy to attach to anything, like the leash ring on a pet’s collar. (If you were thinking of attaching it to your passport, you could just use a small zippered pouch, which I do anyway to protect it from spills.)

SpotyPal has an app that is easy to use and customize your device as you like. Whenever Fiona strayed, I would get an alert on my phone. Then I clicked on the map. Then I looked up, just to get eyes on her. Sure enough, she was where the map said she is.

Spotypal’s Other Features

There is a free SpotyPal app to download. It’s simple to use. The first step is to connect your SpotyPal device to the phone. You do this by holding it near the phone and pressing the button until you hear a tone. Then you name your SpotyPal and assign an icon. This is particularly useful in case you have several SpotyPal devices – then you know where your pet is (a paw on the map), and where your keys are, each with its on easily identified icon on your map, like this:

A SpotyPal costs 29 eu (presently in June, 2019, they have a 1 + 1 offer!), and there are economical multipacks, great if you have a family or if you just have a lot of things to keep track of.

Finding Things That Have Strayed

It’s really nice to get a notification when you and your SpotyPal are drifting apart, like this:

Last Seen Location: The SpotyPal has a range of about 70 meters. After that, the item remains on the map where it was when you were last 70 meters apart, so you can retrace your steps and locate it.

Crowd-Finding: Do you need help finding your far away item? There is a brilliant crowd-finding function. Whenever any SpotyPal, anywhere, passes near your lost item, you’ll get an alert. You have absolute privacy. The crowd will not know what they are helping you find.

Find Your Phone: Just as the app on your phone helps you find the item attached to your SpotyPal, the SpotyPal can help you find your phone, even if it’s on silent.

Alarm Clock: Using your app, you can program the SpotyPal to wake you.

Nearby Alert: Just like you receive a separation alert, you’ll receive a notification on your phone when your device is again in range as the item approaches you – on your checked luggage, for instance. Or as you approach your lost item.

2-Way Alert: Lets you know if you are forgetting either your phone, or your SpotyPal and attached items.

SOS Alert: In the app, you can pre-set some contacts so that they will receive an SOS alert with your location. All you need to do is press the button on your SpotyPal.

How to Get a SpotyPal

A SpotyPal can be shipped to you anywhere, with free shipping worldwide for three pieces or more. If you’re shipping to the US from the USA store, shipping is free with a minimum purchase of $50, and in the UK from the UK store, with free shipping for a purchase of £42.00 or more.

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This small, unpretentious, and utterly charming Cycladic Island is a fine dining destination. Kimolos’ specialties are like the island itself: pure, bold, and authentic. The island is dry and rocky, so whatever manages to grow here has intensity.  Dry soil and bright sun concentrate the flavors of the produce. Their breed of tomato is small- the size of a newborn’s fist. These lumpy little beauties are packed with sweet, tangy intensity. Instead of cucumbers, they grow “ξυλάγουρα” (xylagoura)- a shorter, fatter, pale skinned fruit that has two lives. Young and unripe, it’s the most delicate, crisp “cucumber” you can imagine. As it ripens and swells, it becomes a melon. They’re so tasty that islanders who went to Piraeus in search of work found the splendid melons of Attiki bland. The koroneiki olive- like it does throughout much of Greece- produces fine rich oil.

A personal, authentic gastronomic experience

Why do I know all of this? Because of the place I was staying- Kimolia Gi. Kyria Odigitria the proprietress keeps an excellent garden and she showed them to me. Her son Giorgos told me how they close down in fall because the olive harvest is a lot of work and needs all of their attention. His grandfather built the olive press, and other members of the community use it, too. Kyria Maria, her mother, makes “Beltes”. I visited her in the garden and she explained how she does it. You take those island tomatoes and chop them very fine, then salt them and put them in a large pan of the roof to concentrate in the sun as the high winds whisk away moisture. You stir it often. The resulting tangy is bright in flavor and color.

This was the secret of the excellent “Ladenia” we had for breakfast. Ladenia is a soft, slightly elastic flatbread with a crisp lower crust. It is made with flour, yeast, salt, olive oil, and little else but for the smear of tomato and the sprinkling salt on top. It is

like what you always hope a focaccia will be like. It’s also so much more delicious than it sounds.

This ending “-enia” is used for other Kimolos specialties, like “Tirenia”. These are cheese pies made with a yeast dough, folded around some soft sweet goat’s cheese to make a tidy square with an open top. “Kolokithenia” is a made of grated zucchini, herbs, cheese, and held together with egg and some flour.

Capers- the Roses of Kimolos

That’s what ourfriend and guide Dimitris Ventouris says when he spies a bush of round caper leaves sprouting from the base of a stone house in Chorio, the island’s only town. Many of the Cycladics are known for capers, which take to the dry and rocky soil. Rumors abound that in some places imported capers are repackaged and sold as local. Kimolos isn’t the kind of place you need to worry about that. The foods and the people providing them have integrity. Capers are packed not in brine but simply in salt. They’re irresistible on their own.

Kritamo

This wild green grows by the sea, looks a little like seaweed, and has a bracing saline tang. Pickled, it makes a tangy meze or adds pungency to a mild dish, like fava or potatoes.

Almyrakia

This thick-leafed green also grows on the shore and is also rich with the salt of the sea- hence the sanme “almyrakia” (salty) It’s boiled and served with oil and lemon as a delicious salad.

Wild Thyme, Majoram, Throubi, and Oregano

What the island’s dry soil and high winds are magic for herbs. They’re explosive with fragrance. One fine chef- Augustos Galanos of Meltemi View and Taste gathers them himself in the mountains. He brought me to see the stacks of them drying. The condensed scent of the Kimolean landscape filled the room.

Island of Goats

Cheeses of Kimolos- Xyno and Manoura

This is the perfect landscape for goats to roam and graze. Our rice pudding at breakfast was made from their milk, and so was the tangy soft goat’s cheese called “Xyno”. Goats’ milk also makes the local “Manoura”. Cylinders of white cheese are placed on roof tops to dry out, then they are aged in the lees of wine. Delicate air bubbles make the hard cheese lacy in texture. The wine leavings give it an appealing trace of mustiness.

Secret Cheeses

Everyone knows that the foods that are the hardest to get are the tastiest. By that measure, this was the finest cheese you’ll taste. How did we get it? Well, we took a boat ride around an uninhabited island, logically named Poliegos (“many goats”). While we were docked at a deserted beach, a man came down a mountain trail from tending his goats. He needed help pushing his boat out. In the course of conversation, we learned he makes cheeses, and will occasionally sell a few. When we showed up at his house later that night, he hauled sacks of small cylindrical cheeses out of the refrigerator. They were smeared damply with lees. They smelled heavenly. We weighed our selections on a kitchen scale. We had some tsicoudia. It was straight from the freezer, still thick enough to coat the glass.

An Artisanal Store

You can’t always count on running into a cheese maker on a deserted beach on an uninhabited island. So it’s fortunate there’s a store. The guy who runs it has his own goats. “If there’s a storm and the boats don;t come, the kids on Kimolos will still have fresh milk” he says. He makes a great variety of cheeses- with the leavings of wine pressing, and other Manoura laced with various fresh mountain herbs- an ideal pairing since this is what the goats have been grazing on. He also sells capers, salted and hand-packed into jars. And of course fresh meats too.

Goat- Kimolos’ meat of choice.

The goats here breathe fresh sea air and dine on pungent wild herbs. They frolic in the mountainous terrain and build meat of character, scented with throubi and thyme. So it needs nothing but a skillful braise and a little salt and lemon. Ladera- vegetables simmered with tomato and oil- served with goat are a Kimolean specialty.

The providers of Kimolos

The islanders are proud, in the best sense, of their culinary heritage. They preserve it and share it. Like Kyria Margarita’s exquisite wedding cookies that she made for us- each one a lacy work of art.

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Koukaki, Athens’ secret neighborhood

Just on the other side of the Acropolis Museum is one of Athenians’ favorite neighborhoods. There’s really not much to do here, and that is much of the charm. There is a lot to see though. Elegant 19th C facades share the streets with respectable apartment buildings from the 1960’s. The streets are shaded by trees, and you hear birdsong. At the base of the Acropolis and next to Dionysos Aeropagitou, Athens’ favorite promenade, this is the historic center. Yet it’s as peaceful as a village.

My favorite hotel in Athens

If I stayed in a hotel in Athens, I would want it to be in Koukaki. Amazingly, there is actually a hotel here- the Herodion. Large, cosmopolitan, and elegant, it somehow has everything you would love about a tiny bed and breakfast. That chic lobby instead of giving way to impersonal coolness instead opens onto a library, complete with cozy couches and a fireplace. The welcome is personal and warm.

Behind the library is an atrium, complete with ancient trees poking through the glass ceiling. There are chandeliers and rough wood. Greenery trails along the walls outside. This must be the most romantic room in all of Athens in the rain. By night, fairy lights go on in the garden outside and candles fill the room. Everyone looks fabulous. There is no music- just the gentle flow of conversation. Come in for a drink or a meal- their menu is a delight.

Point a, their rooftop restaurant, has a view like no other. It is hard to believe it is legal to be this close to the Parthenon, to say nothing of the upper story of the Acropolis museum. The food is creative and whimsical, yet honest- entirely Greek in inspiration.

Even for people who already have a place to stay in Athens, the Herodion is a wonderful resource to get the most out of the city.

One of my favorite things to do in Athens is to see a performance at the Odeon of Herodes. It’s 300 meters away. A dinner or drink before or after the performance to marvel at the Parthenon a while longer really makes the evening.

I’ve been a dinner guest here, but never stayed at the hotel. This is not a sponsored post. I was impressed with the hotel, and love knowing there is an ideal place for visitors to stay and get the most out of an Athenian visit.

This is the Herodion’s site for more information

Herodion, Rovertou Galli 4, Athens

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Playful, avant garde cuisine.

Appetizers start arriving- Avant garde, playful de-constructions of the essentials of Greekness. The first thing that arrives is a centerpiece- olive branches by a jeweler. But the olives are not metal- they look almost velvety. “Take one” Jenny says. It’s not velvet- it’s frost! I slip it into my mouth and a layer of green olive oil sorbet coats my mouth, then there’s a rich, savory olive ice cream I enjoy for a moment longer. It’s served with rustic whole wheat bread, like you would have if you were eating under a plane tree at your aunt’s house if your aunt were from a village in Crete with a wood burning oven. Not such a fanciful analogy- the team of two chefs are from Crete- for all the fantasy, there is also a simple, beautiful truth.

Then Loukumades- usually a sweet, honey syrup soaked thing- these were crisp and hot and filled with fresh cheese- tangy and savory, with a hint of honey for balance. Another dish was an interpretation of Imam Biyaldi-  eggplant stuffed with onions simmered in tomato- a garden dish.

Ours comes coated in delicious black “dirt”, with the gardener’s footprints crossing the plate.We were there on the full moon. I realize you can see the moon from everywhere, but it looks fatter and more golden from Athens. We’re all bloggers, so half of the fun is photographing everything before we drink it /eat it / take it in.

We lingered over the main courses, sharing everything, the king fish a great favorite, and everything wonderful. Where the appetizers are playful, the main courses – equally inventive- are a little more serious, classical.

Recommended Read: How to drink Ouzo (and why)

Katia came to see if any of us needed a pashmina in the evening breeze. She also has  a store of fans for a heat wave. Such thoughtfulness! I’ve never felt more coddled. In the spirit of the best Mediterranean hospitality,  Point a, stunning as it is, is not about impressing at all- it’s about enjoying the beauty of the moment.

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Timeless craftsman, timeless craft

“How old would you say he is?” A simple question with a complex answer- sure, there must be a number, but he embodies timelessness in a way that renders a number irrelevant. He has the vigor and vitality of a man in his twenties, and experience and a countenance to render him ancient. As to his actual appearance, he is deeply weathered, hands of enormous usefulness with skin like armor. Men whose job it is to harness the elements – the sea, wind, fire – have a mythical quality about them. Mr. Psaradelis, the ship builder of Skala Kalonis, is such a man:

The life of the sea

The first time Ι came to Greece it was the sight of fishing boats – each brightly painted their own individual way – that made the most lasting impression. More than the Parthenon or Delfi, the boats embodied iconic, enduring Greece. The ruins, though glorious, are ancient. But the are boats timeless. They made the ancient seafaring past current. Now we are on Lesvos, land of pretty much everything we value about Greece (beauty, philosophy, grace- not to mention ouzo too). Skala Kalonis is the heart of the island, nestled in its inner curve. The harbor is flooded with that light Henry Miller liked so much and the wind nearly as strong. It is the perfect day, the perfect place to meet a shipbuilder. Mr. Psaradelis’ workshop is right on the harbor.  Mandoukas, his excellent dog, keeps watch.

A living thing

In the shaded courtyard is a large boat over a century old- he is restoring it. All its ribs exposed, it looks more like a being than a vessel, a formidable, noble being. He strokes it with admiration. “Wood is a living organism. It changes.” He helps the boat adjust to the changes, all its rich character left intact. And its skeleton? As with the bones in our bodies, every single piece of wood has a different name, as integral to the wholeness of the being as it is for us.

It seems to be a craft filled with eternal truths. Is it the oldest profession? He says that it is-

“Shipbuilding is as old as mankind.”

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Although I adore watching Sex and the City, it has ruined my beloved city’s reputation. I love the fun and the fantasy and Patricia Field’s marvelous vision, but there’s a vibe of trying way too hard that is very not Manhattan, and particularly not downtown (the word “downtown” automatically embodying the ethos from Taxi Driver to Paul’s Boutique).

Of course we put effort into our dress, but it was organic, indigenous, creative, and above all, pretty cheap. The very few new things in our wardrobes came from the designers themselves (Betsey Johnson still had stalls at street fairs, and I could afford to shop there with money I earned babysitting), or from Capezio (leotards and butter soft ballet slippers- meant for hardwood. After a week on grimy sidewalks we were essentially barefoot), but most of our clothes were from flea markets and vintage shops- bed jackets (worn over a leotard, with old jeans and ballet slippers), fedoras, ball gowns (also to school), pegged black jeans from Trash and Vaudville and t-shirts we cut the necks out of (my favorite was from The Specials)- these were our school clothes. From Patricia Field’s shop on 8th street, we bought boxes of face powder from Japan. It smelled like cherry blossoms.

So, back to Exarchia-

Charlene my older girl and I were on a trip to Athens a few years ago, and she was at this perfect age where she was starting to understand what she wanted to project, but she had trouble finding the raw materials. She got a Hell Bunny dress covered in playing cards in London on the way to San Francisco, some frilly knickers thing at Dark Garden (custom corset shop) in Hayes Valley (SF), and a Series of Unfortunate Events – mood dress in Edinburgh when she went for the Fringe with her dad, but the rest was pretty much McBershka. You don’t really want to find a piece of yourself in a multi-national mega shop.

So anyway there we are on Benaki- in this sweet neighborhood that, like ’80’s Manhattan, doesn’t need to try too hard- and she sees this poster in the window of the furniture repair shop- a Betty-Pagesque girl with a ’50’s dress and ’40’s shoes was standing in a distinctly Exarchia doorway. She does a little squeal- real girl, real clothes, real style. There was a name- Yesterday’s Bread- and an address- Kalidromiou, close to where we were staying, a block or two from the square.

That’s where we met Strato and Daphne.Although we have seen them less than a dozen times,they are very much a part of our world. Each of my girls found a piece of themselves in this shop, finally realizing a vision that had only been abstract up to then. The store is made for this- just enough organization to find what you need- rows of men’s jackets, rows of dresses, etc., and just enough chaos to make it feel like a you broke into the wardrobe room of a theater- steamer trunks of scarves, of corsets.   We stayed a couple of hours our first visit- she tried on lots of things, refining and self – defining as she did. After a while, Daphne could see where she was going and helped her get there. Charlene got lots of stuff, a vintage one-piece, shirts, dresses.

I got a dress too- full skirted, shawl collared, self-belt, that I wear all summer, and a leopard cape I wear all winter.

Another time Charlene came back with a burlesque/circus dress, ruffles, trailing at the back, short in the front, very Panic at the Disco. It’s not conventionally practical, but on the other hand, when you need it, you really need it- nothing else is going to satisfy that mood. We like a sense of occasion in our household.

Mei Mei went a few years later, at that same time in her life when she was deciding how she wants to look. She chose a kelly green polka-dot skirt, some vintage pin-stripe converses, and a beaded satin evening bag, shaped like an owl. She wore them all to tea at the Grande Bretagne:

On our next trip, my mother bought her a floor length strapless black lace ballgown, and a mauve velvet hat. She wore the dress to her beach party for her 18th birthday, and many times before and since. My mother also bought a bold babushka scarf for herself, like the kind from the Ukranian stores on the Lower East Side.

So why all the stories? Because clothes matter. You can have an all night beach party for your 18th birthday in a dress from the H & M, but something will be missing- clothes are a part of your history, as essential for defining who you really are as a costume is for a character on stage. How does vintage help in the the quest for figuring out who you are? For one thing, wearing clothes that already have a history of their own can give you a head start. Fashions recall eras, and all the things that belong to them- philosophy, design, politics, and, not least, music. Also, things are a lot more special when there is just the one, not hundreds, in the city.

Check Yesterday’s Bread’s facebook for their store hours. From the square of Exarchia, take the mostly pedestrian street Tsamadou to Kalidromiou (3-5 minutes)- make a sharp right and it’s just a few steps up. (If you’re visiting the Archaeological museum, it’s right near by).

I didn’t mention the prices-  they are very, very good, but that’s not why you would come.

You could think of them as rescuers of fashion. They’re also rescuers of dogs- met Beer, the wobbly legged baby pointer Daphne found:

Beer sent Fiona a bandanna:

Yesterday’s Bread
Kalidromiou 87-89
210 881 1233

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Rebetiko is not really music for sunshine. The weather today is just right- soft overcast skies that let that quiet kind of beauty flourish. It’s no more strange that a prison would be photogenic than that mournful songs would be beautiful. What are we doing at the old prison on a Sunday morning? Musing on beauty, a lot of which came from here.

We’re on an extraordinary tour that invites us in to the story of Rebetiko. A group in our hometown (Thessaloniki Walking Tours) breathes the vividness of a fairy tale into the history and culture of our city. The tours I have been on are not so much walking and seeing (plenty of both) as they are like grabbing at a thread and following it somewhere unexpected, unearthing legends and memories along the way, visiting personalities so alive in memory and song that they are only technically departed, telling their stories, and in so doing giving layers of meaning to ours.

Related post: Best Things to Do in Thessaloniki – Sights, Activities, and Cultural Experiences

Genti Koule and the Flourishing of Rebetiko

The tour was about a genre of Greek music of deep cultural resonance- Rebetiko, in philosophy not unlike the blues, or American bluegrass, but distinctly urban. Its history is tied to the turmoil of early 20th C Greece, and- like most genres with enduring meaning- it’s not without darkness and strife. So logically we meet our guide, Tassos Papadopoulos, at the very prison that figures prominently in the culture of Rebetiko, the storied Genti Koule. It’s the city’s highest point, visible from everywhere, and with a grand vista. This was originally a fortress, part of the Byzantine walls. The main walls of the prison are themselves a rich mosaic. Elements culled from earlier structures – columns, plaques – casually and randomly incorporated into the walls.

The more recent history draws us here. The Genti Koule became a prison at the end of the 1800’s, and was in use until 1989 (!). Everyone on the tour remembers this as a functioning prison, a place of recent, vivid memory. It is hard to imagine that it could fall into such a picturesque state so very quickly. It is a moving place. Right inside the enormous gate is the visitors area. A double screen of mesh separates us from narrow walkways where our incarcerated friends and relatives would be. We could chat through the fine mesh, but not pass them anything- weapons, for instance, or more to the point, hashish.

The Greeks who came from Asia Minor as refugees and during the population exchange brought a love of hashish with them. Illegal in Greece, it is not a jump to see how the prison fits into our picture. Rebetiko itself was not in favor of the years of Metaxas- like the Nargile, it was thought much too Turkish.

Moumourika – The Hypnotic Motif of Rebetiko

Art born of melancholy has staying power. Also art born of contemplation. Rebetiko casts a little spell- the repetition of a slightly plaintive, hypnotic motif takes hold of you. This is the characteristic “Moumourika,” bringing you into the song and moving you forward with it.  A repeated motif makes all the sense in the world. As Tassos points out, in prison you have plenty of time on your hands.

Rebetiko and Cultural Consciousness

While we are on this narrow bridge stretched across the prison yard, Tasso is telling us some lyrics that came from here- Vangelis Papazoglou’s song of 1935 “Five Years’ Sentence”. A man behind me answers him, and the song comes to life as a dialogue, back and forth across the length of the bridge. It is completely spontaneous, not unjoyous- a moment that reflects the depth of the integration of Rebetiko into the collective psyche. We go back through the guard house and into the cell block, opened for us. This is the solitary confinement area, picture to the words of a poem about Genti Koule being “the tomb of the living”

We file out, contemplative, and outside the prison gates is a poignant, unexpected moment- two musicians have joined us

and we get to hear “Five Years’ Sentence,” right outside of the Genti Koule, and it’s beautiful.

Rebetiko andThessaloniki’s Spiritual Landmarks

You could stop here, at this one perfect moment, but we don’t- the history of Rebetiko takes us through the city’s spiritual landmarks.

We meander along the old walls to our next stop. It’s near Tzo-Tzo’s, a place for smoking and drinking and listening to rebetiko songs being played at one table or another, maybe a decade long closed, no one among us has not had at least one memorable (yet blurry) late night here. It had the best view in the city, or at least that was the rumor- years of the rich smoke of hand rolled cigarettes had long blackened it out.

Right where we are standing is a ruin of a house, one of its walls the wall of the city itself. When the refugees came from Asia minor, they took the houses the Turks had abandoned, but it was not nearly enough. The Byzantine walls were covered with shacks and houses such that the wall itself could no longer be seen. A bulldozer finally leveled them one day, but left this one standing:

(Tzo-Tzo’s is just out of the frame to the right. There’s no more point in photographing it now than there was in eating there then. But it was glorious.) Tasso fills in the landscape as we look over the west harbor. The cranes disappear as he fills it with beer gardens and skating rinks, concerts, a tram. This was the pleasure gardens of Bechsinar (in Turkish “Besh” = five, and “Tsinar” the plane tree, so beloved for its deep shade). Just up from this was the Bara- an enormous red light district of European-wide reputation. We hear the names of the old “Tekedes”- places to smoke hashish, and houses of cards and dice masquerading as tavernas. One, the Green Mill of the 1960’s, was right next to us. These were places not just to hear rebetiko, but to live it.

Immortal Figures in Rebetiko

As we zig-zag down through the enchanted alleys of Ano Poli, we stop at Tstsani Square (merely formalizing the well-established immortality of Vassilis Tsitsanis), for some vignettes of his life –

In Terpsithea Square, next to the tomb of a Sufi holy man, more of this rich subculture comes to life. Rebetiko is a deeply urban music, one that also soeaks to the marginalized. We learn the different types of ‘Magas’ (tough guy), and their arcane sartorial secrets. It’s easy to picture them walking through the square, maybe starting a fight. We learn single words that tell a whole story. “Dervishopaido,” for instance- was the ultimate compliment: it meant one ‘who dances like a dervish’.

At the splendid Alaza Imaret, we hear of an illustrious career, decades upon decades on all the continents- a life so full it seems like a myth. Then to the cemetery for another life of mythic proportions and a funeral thronged with prostitutes. In the shade of the fountains by the Rotonda, one more tale- when we walk over to Alambra to hear more Rebetiko, beautiful Rosa Ashkenazy still dances in our heads.

Thessaloniki Walking Tours cover many themes, and are also given in English. We have 17 centuries and three empires worth of history in Thessaloniki- they weave it into some fascinating, lively pieces. Visit their site for details-

You can hear live Rebetika several nights a week at Alambra, Phillipou 80, near the Rotonda.

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